Give Vintage Wool A Chance
How I Came To Love Vintage Woolen Pieces & Why You Should Give Vintage Wool A Chance Too
Wool, especially vintage wool, has a really bad reputation. Vintage pieces made of wool are often associated with itchy skin, moth holes and that awful mothball smell. BUT, there are ways to combat these issues, and I promise that vintage items made from this fiber really are INCREDIBLE (unless, of course, you have an allergy to wool, in which case I am sincerely sorry).
Over the years, I have grown to appreciate, and dare I say, even love and seek out vintage pieces made from wool. Obviously not all woolen pieces are created equal, given the type of wool used and how it’s been processed. I am sure many of you are familiar with those usually chunky knit and itchier pieces - often those very old sweaters (most of mine are from the 40s). But there are also those softer vintage pieces made from cashmere and angora (rabbit) wool - I often see this in higher end 50s pieces as well as 80s sweaters and sweater dresses. There is also things like the lighter weight Worsted wool that has long been used in suits. But my personal favorite - the often overlooked by others- are those wonderful felted wool hats and bags!
Some wool hats from my personal collection
Wool was widely used back in the day and as such, when you are looking for vintage pieces - especially for those colder weather seasons - you will find that many vintage products contain wool (this even includes household items like rugs and blankets). Fortunately for me, both as a buyer and collector, I find that these pieces tend to get ignored at estate sales and auctions, meaning more for me . . . But I can't help but think it’s because these items are just not appreciated because of the negative connotations associated with the fiber.
The “Negative” Aspects Of Wool… And How To Fix It!
The things I usually hear when discussing vintage woolen pieces are as follows : “IT’S ITCHY … IT SMELLS … IT HAS (OR WILL HAVE) MOTH HOLES …”
While these are valid concerns, each of these problems can be addressed. Additionally, there are tons of reasons why wool is actually an incredible material! This post isn’t a dissertation on the science of why this fiber is awesome. You can find more qualified people online to explain that to you HERE — and it’s actually quite fascinating science! Instead, this is a summary of why I - a vintage seller and collector- have come to love old pieces created from this fiber. Obviously, If you have an allergy, you can search for vintage acrylic pieces instead - excellent decades for these items tend to be the 60s - 80s.
Let’s first address the issues we all hear… IT’S ITCHY … IT SMELLS … IT HAS (OR WILL HAVE) MOTH HOLES …
“It’s Itchy…”
But is it really? What kind of woolen piece are you talking about because honestly, truly, not all woolen items are itchy. Sure, those old chunky knit virgin wool sweaters may be . . . but what about angora or cashmere. Or better yet, the pieces that are lined - often in satin - like suits, coats, and even hats! Not all wool pieces are itchy and we shouldn’t just assume it will make us miserable just because of one bad experience. Besides, if it really is “itchy '' LAYER IT! When it’s cold outside, this is honestly a great option anyway. You can easily wear a slip or another shirt or dress underneath. It makes you warmer AND protects your skin!
A 1940s Forstmann Woolen Suit - the softer suit wool and lined jacket really give you some added comfort! This already sold.
“It Smells…”
But what exactly are you smelling? Is it a mothball smell or Lanolin? There is a HUGE difference! Admittedly, I have had the unfortunate experience of buying a gorgeous wool cardigan, cleaning it, and reactivating that mothball smell. BUT there are tricks to get this out! First, you need to mix water, a lot of white vinegar, detergent, and sometimes I even use baking soda and soak a piece repeatedly for hours, changing out the solution for a fresh soak (obviously you need to be cautious with color run too, so factor that in). Then I do a final wash with detergent and a good rinse, followed by laying the garment flat on a towel upon my drying rack outside in the sunshine. This is very important and done in order to prevent stretching as the fiber gets incredibly heavy and will pull if hung wet on a hanger. You will want to replace the towel throughout the day. It has worked for me EVERY SINGLE TIME. And remember, not everything actually has a mothball smell, so such rigorous soaking methods are not actually necessary for every item.
Now, that LANOLIN smell (aka wool wax) is not at all the same scent as mothball. In fact some people like or at least don’t mind the smell of Lanolin. The good news, while its is actually natural, it does not seem to be a prominent scent to every piece of woolen vintage - in fact I find that most pieces don’t have the smell at all. In my experience it is generally associated with less processed wool, so usually those older pieces with a more “rough” wool feel. If you are someone who doesn't really like the smell, there are ways to mitigate the scent - though in my opinion it cannot be fully removed if it is present. After cleaning, you will want to let it sit out and dry in the sunshine. I also find that spraying the item with quality, unflavored vodka, can really help with the smell both while it is drying and afterwards.
“It has or will have moth holes…”
I get it — it sucks when you find an incredible piece of vintage and it’s not perfect. But the fact of the matter is, thats what happens to MOST vintage pieces, woolen or otherwise. Rarely is a piece perfect. And honestly that's what makes vintage so incredible to begin with — it has a story to tell and more incredibly it's still here! For woolen vintage, this often means that a moth at some point in the decades that the item has been around has found the item and its been nibbled- it happens! If the damage is minimal, there are ways to fix this. But first you want to clean the item to make sure the immediate threat is gone! Then, if needed, you can mend the item. Depending on the weave or knit, you can simply stitch holes away OR if it is an item with more severe damage, I have seen some very creative people embroider over the holes, creating an all new look to the item!
Yes, moths still exist, but you can prevent future moth holes by proper storage and cleaning. Using cedar chests (or any storage bins with little CEDAR pieces inside) in summer months when you're not using the items is a great place to start. Also check the items over regularly when they are hanging in your closet to prevent any issues before they happen. You can of course hang moth traps if you choose, BUT I personally would not recommend this as they tend to be terribly stinky and leave an awful odor on all of your clothing.
Some of the wooden cedar hangers I use … sand these regularly to keep the scent strong!
Reasons Why I Have Come To Love Woolen Vintage
It’s Longevity
From the perspective of a vintage collector and seller, wool is consistently the sturdiest fiber I find and work with. It’s basically like the workhorse of fibers. I suppose there is a reason that so many vintage workwear pieces (winter coats, sweaters, hunting pants, military uniforms, even swimsuits!) were made of the material - it lasts under rigorous conditions and constant use. For example, if you have ever seen a pair of WWII era wool navy pants, you will probably note that they were made incredibly well. In fact, save for maybe a few moth holes or those buttons on front breaking, I have never seen a pair in “bad” shape. That goes for most woolen pieces I come across. Sure, it may have a stains and you may get a few moth holes in it; however, structurally speaking, the pieces are in great shape!
A pair of 1963 Woolrich Hunting pants - sturdy, warm, and totally retro! You can find them HERE
It Feels Sturdy
The most common issue I find in woolen vintage items are in fact moth holes or maybe the occasional snag or unraveling of a weave (and stains of course), but never an actual issue with the fiber itself. And while I know it is possible, I have NEVER in my life seen a vintage woolen piece that is shredding or dry rot. The same cannot be said for fibers like silk — a beautiful fiber that is, unfortunately, notorious for shredding once it reaches a certain age due to body salts. Woolen vintage pieces have never given me the feeling that one needs to only wear it on “special” occasions and cautiously at that. The structural integrity always gives me the confidence that these items can become staple pieces in your wardrobe, worn and washed with care but without too much fear of it falling apart.
It is Super Warm
It’s no surprise that woolen clothing can be super warm. There is something wonderful about putting on a vintage sweater with a knit set on a chilly day, or wrapping up in a vintage wool coat to keep out the cold. But over the years, I have found that this is especially true when layering woolen pieces that look incredible (even if they are itchy) over slips and other garments. This has the added benefit of relieving the itching against your skin while still keeping you warm.
It Is Predictable When Cleaning
While there will always be some vintage woolen pieces that need dry cleaning (i.e. suits, coats, etc), the bulk of the woolen pieces I deal with are sweaters, knit sets, and the occasional dress. I have really come to love the almost ritual practice I have developed over the years from cleaning these pieces. The nice thing about cleaning wool is the fiber is relatively sturdy, especially once you learn how to clean and dry it properly. These garments are pretty predictable in how they react and what is needed to ensure a good clean and lack of smell - so it feels as though the risk of submerging it in water is (almost) gone. The same cannot be said for other vintage fiber types I clean (or even dry clean . . . as even that can go wrong!).
Its Beautiful
The skill that goes into turning raw wool into thread, dying it, and then weaving, knitting, or felting it into these incredible vintage pieces that have stood the test of time has always festinated me! Finding modern pieces made of natural fibers is rare these days, but we can always go back to vintage! I promise if you look closely at a vintage woolen piece - be that a suit, coat, sweater, or even a hat or bag - you will be amazed at the incredible and beautiful piece of history you are holding!
Give Wool A Chance!
While some may avoid it, there are many redeeming qualities to wool and the beautiful vintage pieces that contain it. Hopefully this post will help convince you to give those beautiful woolen pieces a chance! And, if you don’t have any in your own collection yet, you can check out the many woolen pieces that make up part of my “Cozy Knits” collection HERE.
